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BBQ huts starting from £3475

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Building up your Cabin

Buildup of the Taiga BBQ Grill

Assembly Instructions for the Taiga BBQ Support ...

Assembly Instructions for the Taiga BBQ Support

Parts List:

  • Side plates, 3 pcs
  • Shelves, 2 pcs
  • Bottom plate, 1 pc
  • Hooks, 4 pcs
  • Bag of screws
  • Turn the fireplace (1) upside down
  • Fasten the 3 side plates (2) to the three brackets on the bottom of the fireplace loosely by hand
  • Slot the 2 shelves (3) into the grooves in the side plates
  • Fasten the perforated bottomrack to the side plates with bolts and nuts
  • Tighten the bolts on the bottom of the fireplace first, leaving the tightening of the bolts in the bottom-rack to last
  • Fasten the hooks (4 pcs) to the holes in side plates

Buildup of the Taiga BBQ Grill

  • Turn the fireplace upright. Thread the three vertical support bars through the three locating holes in the fireplace and secure each with one cotter pin above the fireplace.
  • Put the swing-out skillets onto the vertical support bars and adjust the height of the skillets with the cotter pins.
  • Put the adjustable damper in the centre of the fireplace and slide the ash pan into the ash box.

Taiga BBQ Grill DIY Chimney Fitting Instructions

Install safely When installing Taiga BBQ Grill into buildings, following fire safe...

Install safely

When installing Taiga BBQ Grill into buildings, following fire safety instructions is essential. Here are some important aspects, which should be taken in consideration:

The lower end of outer flue should extend to 30 cm downwards and at least 10 cm horizontally from the nearest flammable roof material. (See picture: chimney installation drawing)

The length of the chimney depends on the slope and the height of the roof, but the distance between the top of the chimney and the nearest flammable roof material must be at least 80 cm.

The outer flue included in the chimney set can only be used in buildings with no heat insulation or suspended ceilings. If Taiga BBQ Grill is installed in buildings with heat insulation or suspended ceilings, a fire protected, made-to-measure bushing is needed.

According to the fire protection instructions, non-inflammable material, such as concrete or protective metal sheet, should be placed under and around (50 cm) the fireplace.

Take special care with open fire in indoor areas.

Chimney assembly

Instructions

  • Lift and place the assembled Taiga BBQ Grill below the chimney hole of the roof (Ø 37 cm).
  • Tighten the bigger collar - the support collar - into the groove in the upper part of the outer flue.
  • Thread the tab through the slot and lock it by turning it back tightly on top of it to prevent the collar from loosening.
  • Thread the outer flue through the chimney hole from the top so that it hangs down from the support collar.
  • Lower the inner flue pipes from the roof and connect them to each other and to the hood so that the straight end of the flue pipe is placed on the flange on top of the hood. The chimney's own weight guarantees sufficient fastening. The four holes in upper part of the lower flue remain hidden inside the upper flue. The four holes in the upper flue will be used for fastening the rain cap.
  • Fasten the rain cap to the inner flue with four screws.
  • Place the smaller collar - rain collar - on top of the sheet iron strips in the upper end of the outer flue.
  • The rain cap prevents the rain from falling between the chimney and the outer flue.
  • Seal the joint between the rain cap and the chimney with heat-resistant silicone.

Log Cabin Build Instructions

These instructions should be used in conjunction with the Build Plan provided in your ...

These instructions should be used in conjunction with the Build Plan provided in your Log Cabin kit. Please read these instructions carefully before attempting to build up your Log Cabin.

PRE-BUILD

STORAGE

If you are unable to start build immediately after delivery it is important to stack the material horizontally and cover it to protect it from the weather.

TIMBER

Wood is a natural product and it will vary with climate changes. However, with proper care will be able to enjoy your log cabin for many years. During very hot dry weather small cracks may appear in the wood. These will disappear when the weather changes. Small cracks in no way effect the integrity of the cabin!

BUILD

BASE

It is very important the base is firm and level. We recommend the cabin be built on a solid concrete base. The width of the base should be the same as the width of the cabin, this allows rain water from the cabin roof to fall on the ground and not the cabin base.

ORGANISATION

To save a lot of time later we suggest you take a little time now to lay out the wood in groups according to size. If you do this it is an easy matter to find the right pieces. Please note: some groups may differ in size by as little as 10mm.

CONSTRUCTION

First the base frame should be screwed together. For the walls, place the first logs on top of the base frame, starting with the half logs, one for the back wall and one for the front wall of the cabin. These two logs should be secured to the base frame with a screw at each end. See diagram 1.

The building should be checked if it is square after reaching 3 or 4 wall sections high. To check use a measuring tape and measure the distance from diagonal corners. Knock the logs tightly together. See diagram 2.

Please note: the floor is laid last.

FITTING THE DOOR(S)

After you have laid the third row of logs you should start installing the door. The higher you build the walls it becomes more difficult the put the door in place. Take the door and frame, place it over the logs and slide it down pushing it tightly into place against the log. Next attach the door handles so you can open the door! Keep building up the wall until you have reached the height of the window. See diagram 3.

FITTING THE WINDOW(S)

After you have laid the seventh or eighth long log (check your Build Plan) and two of the shorter logs, you should fit the window. Slide the window into place, making sure it is tightly into place along its length onto the wall beam. Do not fix the door frame to the logs before the cabin is complete. It is enough to fix the bottom rail of the door with one or two screws, to prevent movement during build. See diagram 4.

FINISHING THE WALLS

Once the door(s) and window(s) are in place, build the walls up to the purlins as indicated in your build plan. Since the logs of the front and rear apex sections are not connected to the logs of the side walls, you should secure them by screwing this section to the lower logs at one end.

THE PURLINS

The purlins should be attached as illustrated in your build plan. Check to make sure the joints of the ridge, upper wall logs and purlins form a flat horizontal surface. Use a spirit level to check the sides, front and back walls are vertical. Screw each end of the purlin to the apex.

INSTALLATION OF ROOF BOARDING

Start by assembling the roof boarding. Knock the separate boards lightly together. Fix roof board to each purling with 2 galvanized nails and finally nail the roof board to the wall board. Fit the roof edge reinforcement pieces along the edge of the roof.

FLOORBOARDS

Place the floorboards on the bearers and secure with the nails provided. Knock the separate boards lightly together and fix to each floor bearer with galvanized nails.

POST-BUILD

TREATING YOUR LOG CABIN

After building, you should treat your cabins as soon as possible. There are various products on the market but try to ensure you use a good quality product with oil in it to feed the wood.

Wall Insulation

Wall Insulation Logspan offers a wall insulation system for...

Logspan offers a wall insulation system for timber buildings that can be incorporated into the original log cabin build or fitted retrospectively. However we can understand that you may wish take on this task yourself if you feel wall insulation is necessary and you have the ability to do it.

With this in mind, before you embark on such a task you should read the following information on log cabin design.

Wood swells and shrinks in response to changes in the relative humidity of the air around it, expanding and contracting with seasonal changes in temperature and humidity. So in the winter months timber will expand and in the summer months it will contract.

Log cabins are designed to allow individual logs to expand and contract, and these seasonal changes happen even if the wood was kiln dried. As each and every log changes in its height there will be an accumulative rise or fall in the overall height of the wall. The movement from minimum height to maximum height can be quite considerable.

If you were to fix studding directly to the outer wall for the purpose of creating a cavity and then cladding internally, the studding would restrict the natural movement in the log wall and this would result in loose logs and gaps appearing in the wall between the logs which could allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation void.

It is therefore essential that any studding is attached to the walls with a sliding bracket system or similar method that does not restrict the log walls natural movement.

Also, if the roof is attached to the outer log wall, and the outer log wall contacts, then the roof will lower relative to the floor. Any inner wall must be designed to allow adequate clearance for the ceiling to lower without bottoming out on the top of the inner wall. If it did then it might cause the roof to become detached from its outer wall, or it may prevent the top log of the outer wall from staying in close contact with its lower neighbour and therefore create a gap in the wall and hence the previously mentioned risk of moisture ingress.

All windows and doors should not create a rigid link from the inner wall to the outer wall. They must allow the two walls to move independently of each other.

A properly designed cavity wall insulation system will also incorporate a damp proof membrane, a vapour control barrier and an air gap.

We also have an information page detailing Floor and Roof Insulation

How to apply BBQ Hut Roof Ridge Felt

The roll of heavy duty felt supplied will be 10m x 60cm, this should be cut into three equal 10m ...

The roll of heavy duty felt supplied will be 10m x 60cm, this should be cut into three equal 10m strips, each 20cm in width. Each roll will cover two ridges of your BBQ Hut so you can cut each strip into 5m sections.

Use felt nails to apply a length of each roll to each ridge.

In order to finish off the bottom of the ridge cut the roll so that it can be folded to make a V and nail the bottoms of the roll to the underside of the roof.

The wooden chimney box can now to fitted to cover the tops of the shingle and ridge sections.

How to apply Roof Shingles

Correctly applying your bitumen roof shingles will allow you to enjoy your new log cabin without ...

Correctly applying your bitumen roof shingles will allow you to enjoy your new log cabin without the fear of facing a water leak here and there. It's a simple job, and can be easily completed with the right tools and knowledge.

The bitumen shingles are best fitted when the ambient temperature is above +5oC. The roof must be clean and dry.

Roof Preparation

Chalk lines provide visual guides that help align the shingles, horizontal lines can be snapped every 4 to 5 courses.

All chalk lines are to be considered as guiding lines not application lines.

Shingle Application

Proper fastening is essential for a good roof. Drive the nails straight so that the nail heads are flush with, but not cutting into the shingle surface (Figure 1a). Always nail 2.5 cm above the cut-out and 2.5 cm from each edge. For correct positioning and nail quantities per type of shingle see (Figure 1b).

Figure 1a Figure 1b

Starter Strip (Figure 2)

The roll of heavy duty felt supplied will be approx 60cm wide, this should be cut into three equal strips, each approx 20cm in width.

Figure 2

Each strip is used for a different location. One 20cm strip will be secured along the bottom of the eaves section of the roof see Figure 4 (1). This starter strip should extend beyond the roof by 1cm, see Figure 3.

Figure 3 Figure 4

First courses & application procedure (Figure 4)

Prepare each shingle by removing backing plastic (3).

First course (4):

Start with a complete shingle applied flush with the starter strip. Nail as shown in Figure 1 and continue across roof with full shingles.

Second course (5):

Cut half a tab from a shingle and start at the rake end. Nail the shingle so that lower edge of the tabs is flush with the top of the cut-out of the shingle in the first course.

Third and succeeding courses (2):

Start the third course with a shingle from which a full tab has been cut. Cut off an additional half tab for each succeeding course.

Your final row of shingles will overlap the ridge.

Now follow the instructions again for the other side finishing again by overlapping the ridge.

Ridge strip

The final strip from your roll of felt will be used to cover the ridge.

After you have finished applying the shingles fix the fascia boards as shown so that the windshield covers the singles. (Figure 5)

Log Cabin Base Construction

You can build your log cabin on a base of concrete, railway sleepers, paving slabs...

You can build your log cabin on a base of concrete, railway sleepers, paving slabs positioned on hardcore, compressed gravel or on pillar-supports sunk into the ground. Achieving a level base will simplify the build-up, and a solid base will help keep your cabin looking good for years to come.

Cabins should always have a base as large as the floor (base sizes are given in the technical details for each building). This allows rain water from the roof to drain into the surrounding ground rather than onto the base. Rain water that runs under your cabin and can't drain away can cause problems.

If you plan to build a concrete base you can either build one large slab of concrete or strip foundations running perpendicular to the bearers. Strip foundations will give better drainage, though you will need to use some kind of membrane to prevent the plants that are growing in between the concrete strips from coming through the floor boards.

The cabin floor bearers are supposed to sit on a solid base so the strip foundations must be close enough to support the full floor. If the floor is not fully supported there will be an element of bounce to the floor boards.

Your base level should be 20-50mm above ground level. The thickness of the base material depends on the weight of your cabin.

Floor & Roof Insulation

The first part of your log cabin you should think of insulating is the floor and ...

The first part of your log cabin you should think of insulating is the floor and roof, as this is the thinnest part of your log cabin and so will benefit greatest. The floor and roof of a log cabin can be easily insulated and this will make your log cabin much more economical to heat in winter and cooling in summer.

Floor Insulation

A water repellent material similar to Polystyrene is very useful for insulating the floor. It is fitted directly under the floor boards and between the floor joists.

Insulating the Floor Roof Insulation

First fix timber battens to the roof boards running around the edge of your cabin roof, then fix a batten above each roof purlin running the length of the roof. Roof insulation is fitted between the timber battens. If you are using Bitumen roofing shingles then a plywood or similar material is laid over the insulation and fixed into the battens, this gives you a solid surface to fix the shingles onto. If on the other hand you will be using our metal profile roofing then this can be applied directly to the battens, without the need of the extra plywood surface.

Insulating the roof

We also have an information page detailing Wall Insulation.

What our customers say

“It has been a great buy and I have put a bar in it so it’s more a social room. The construction team were great, built it fast and very professional. Absolutely delighted.” Paul Andrew (Glasgow) – Nida Panorama 4 x 4